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mmcwilliams 2020-08-28 11:29:27 -04:00
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@ -129,11 +129,11 @@ There are people successfully printing spirals in sections on smaller printers,
[PETG](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_terephthalate#Copolymers) is currently the recommended plastic for printing the GNAL. Since this is a piece of darkroom processing equipment its exposure to water and photochemistry is inevitable and should be considered primarily. PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol) is PET--which is a plastic that's typically encountered in plastic bottles and food containers--in a copolymer with glycol.
Various manufacturers have published [safety data sheets](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_data_sheet) for PETG filament. The only warning about reactivity I have discovered states that a condition to avoid is "strong oxidizing agents" which may include reversal bleaches that contain strong acids. This is not a scientific evaluation and may stand to be corrected.
Various manufacturers have published [safety data sheets](http://www.ilpi.com/msds/) for PETG filament. The only warning about reactivity I have discovered states that a condition to avoid is "strong oxidizing agents" which may include reversal bleaches that are comprised of strong acids. This is not a scientific evaluation and may stand to be corrected.
ABS is a viable option but has a greater tendency to warp on larger prints without proper temperature control around the print bed. Since this model needs to be consistently flat across the bottom of the reel, this is not ideal and will make for a challenging print. ABS is a plastic commonly used in injection molding and is also generally non-reactive with photochemistry.
[ABS](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene) is a viable option but has a greater tendency to warp on larger prints without proper temperature control around the print bed. Since this model needs to be perfectly flat across the bottom of the reel, this is not ideal and will make for a challenging print. ABS is a plastic commonly used in injection molding and is also generally non-reactive with photochemistry.
PLA is not recommended but this doesn't mean you can't get an acceptable result with it. The lack of endorsement comes from mostly anecdotal experience witnessing the wear and tear caused by exposure to water on PLA prints. Biodegradable and porous, PLA will wear down in the weakest parts first and on this model that would be the spiral. If you do not need your processing equipment to last a long time, you may find it acceptable. PLA stands for polylactic acid and is likely the most reactive material to use with photochemistry where pH is vital to maintain for consistent results.
[PLA](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid) is not recommended but this doesn't mean you can't get an acceptable result with it. The lack of endorsement comes from mostly anecdotal experience witnessing the wear and tear caused by exposure to water on PLA prints. Biodegradable and porous, PLA will wear down in the weakest parts first and on this model that would be the spiral. If you do not need your processing equipment to last a long time, you may find it acceptable. PLA stands for polylactic acid and is likely the most reactive material to use with photochemistry where pH is vital to maintain for consistent results.
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@ -151,7 +151,7 @@ Fused filament fabrication relies on the behavior of plastics at high heat to cr
The first thing to consider when your prints are coming out warped off the print bed is whether or not your **material** is appropriate for this model. Check the [#material](material) section of this README for more information, but theres a chance if you are using PLA or ABS that large flat prints of this size are warping due to limitations with the material you are using. PETG has proven to warp far less in my own anecdotal experience and is the recommended material for this project.
The thermal properties of the material you're printing are what causes warping, so check if your printer is being set to the recommended **temperatures** on both the bed and extruder for the material and printer you are using. Warping occurs consistently when a section of a part cools too quickly and contracts while the rest of it is still being printed. Avoid this by using an enclosure on your open-frame printer or by printing in a space with low air movement but still with appropriate ventilation for the material you use.
The thermal properties of the material you're printing with are what causes warping, so check if your printer is being set to the recommended **temperatures** on both the bed and extruder for the material and printer you are using. Warping occurs consistently when a section of a part cools too quickly and contracts while the rest of it is still being printed. Avoid this by using an enclosure on your open-frame printer or by printing in a space with low air movement but still with appropriate ventilation for the material you use.
The **slicer** you use and the **settings** in its configuration will make a lot of difference in how your print comes out. During the development of this project [Cura](https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura) is the slicer used most for test prints, however you might find that different software works best with your machine. The settings are important to test before you commit to a complete print of the spiral part.